February 16-17: Bologna

Once I left Venice, I spent a couple days in Bologna, since my professor had recommended it and there was a site in a small town nearby that I wanted to see. I didn't really know what to expect, since I hadn't heard much about the place; I'd been there briefly and had lunch at a cafe near the station once, since I had changed trains there a few times, but I'd never seen the historical center or really heard much about it at all.

So, it was a shock.



Bologna is BEAUTIFUL.



The historical center is a medieval maze of beautiful old palaces, fortresses, churches, and towers. The ubiquitous use of red brick and terracotta roofing gives Bologna the nickname La Rossa; the name takes on a double meaning given the city's post-WWII connections with communism. Even today, it has a comprehensive network of social services, and entrance to most of its museums is completely free.



There is just nothing, nothing like walking down a perfectly ordinary city street, turning a corner, and finding yourself face-to-face with this.



Bologna's famous Two Towers, dating to medieval times when the city once contained as many as 180 such structures, are one of the most famous symbols of the city, mentioned by Dante and other authors of the time.



And yes - if you think they look slightly askew, it's not just sloppy perspective. The Two Towers, like another famous Italian landmark, both are leaning slightly.



The University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world and has been operating continually since its foundation in 1088. It is also the first use of the word "university," derived from the Latin universitas and meaning "aggregate" or "community" in the context of a community of scholars. Today, more than 100,000 students attend every year, and the historical center is full of bars and chic cafes that cater to the younger generation.

Bologna has dozens of prominent museums, many associated with the university: art, music, archaeology, history, science, medicine, and still others.

I could have spent a week in Bologna and still not have been satisfied, but unfortunately I only had a couple of days there and I had to blitz through the museums and interesting sights, hence the lack of in-depth reporting today. So much history, and so little time! I did eat some beautiful meals, though (the food in Bologna is said to be among the best in Italy).



(And now I'm craving buffalo milk mozzarella...)

Next up: my trip to a very special museum, and a subject that is quite dear to my heart.